When summer arrives, naengmyeon (Korean cold noodles) inevitably comes to mind. North Korea cannot be left out when discussing the roots of naengmyeon. In the North, distinctive varieties have taken root in regions such as Pyongyang, Hamhung, Haeju, Wonsan and Ganggye.
Pyongyang naengmyeon is characterized by noodles with a high buckwheat content and a clear, light broth made from dongchimi (radish water kimchi) or beef stock. Instead of bold flavors, a subtle savoriness lingers, and the broth — cold but not excessively so — leaves an overall calm and quiet impression. Settled in Seoul through displaced people after the Korean War, Pyongyang naengmyeon has become the benchmark for Korean naengmyeon today. Hamhung naengmyeon, by contrast, offers the opposite appeal. Chewy noodles made from potato or sweet potato starch are paired with a spicy-sweet sauce, asserting a strong presence. The signature dish, hoe-naengmyeon, is topped with raw skate or flounder, elevating its tangy flavor.
In the South, Jinju naengmyeon stands out for its sheer extravagance. Beef yukjeon (pan-fried beef), egg garnish, pear, cucumber and shredded red pepper fill the bowl with a colorful array of toppings, adding visual richness. The broth is also distinctive, with beef stock and seafood stock prepared separately and then combined. Busan's milmyeon was created as a substitute dish using wheat flour to make up for the shortage of buckwheat right after the Korean War, but it has now established itself as an independent genre apart from naengmyeon. Noodles made from a mix of wheat flour and starch, paired with a slightly sweet broth, give it its charm.
The world of naengmyeon is wider and deeper than one might think. That is why the best naengmyeon for one person may be merely ordinary to another. This summer, rather than staying with one familiar bowl, let us seek out the distinct character of other naengmyeon varieties. In a single bite of noodles and a single sip of broth, we can encounter both the history of a region and the bittersweet taste of the lives of those who lived it.
