Kalguksu, a soul food long cherished by Koreans. When you loosen the tangled noodles and slurp them with the steaming broth, the unpretentious, simple flavor reaches you even more deeply. Kalguksu is made by rolling out dough with a wooden pin, slicing it with a knife, and serving the noodles in a broth made from anchovies, chicken, beef, or seafood. Paired with spicy and refreshing fresh kimchi, it becomes a perfect dish that rivals any lavish feast.
The origin of kalguksu traces back to "jeolmyeon," noodles cut with a knife, recorded in "Gyugon Siuibang," a Joseon-era cookbook. The way kalguksu is made is also quite humble. Flour dough is spread with a rolling pin and cut evenly with a knife. The broth varies by region and taste — anchovies, kelp, clams, perilla seeds, dried pollock, or pufferfish — but one ingredient is always included: sincerity.
Kalguksu has transformed endlessly, absorbing regional elements. Chicken-broth kalguksu of Seoul and Gyeonggi, beef-bone kalguksu of Seoul and Andong, clear-broth handmade kalguksu, Chungcheong Province's multong kalguksu and spicy eolkeuni kalguksu, clam and seafood kalguksu of the West Coast region, Gangwon Province's ongsimi kalguksu and jang kalguksu, Gyeongbuk's yellow-tinged nureun guksu made with soybean powder, Jeju's gogi guksu, and others such as red bean, perilla, mushroom, bomal, and yukgaejang kalguksu — all born with distinctive flavors, adding the joy of choice.
Kalguksu, a symbol of popular cuisine, aligns with the Michelin philosophy of including dishes that locals enjoy most in their daily lives. This year's Michelin Bib Gourmand list includes Myeongdong Kyoja, Hwanghhaenga Kalguksu, and Lim Byung-ju Sandong Kalguksu.
While countless foods come and go as trends, kalguksu still holds its place at the corner of the alley. Humble noodles, warm broth, and a plate of fresh kimchi. That is enough. I hope all hardships unravel as smoothly as kalguksu noodles.
