The first record of noodles, a traditional Korean food, appears in "Gaoli Tujing," written by Xu Jing, a Song Dynasty envoy who visited Goryeo in 1123. Kalguksu, made by rolling out dough, folding it, and slicing it with a knife, first appeared under the name "jeolmyeon" in "Eumsik Dimibang," the first Korean-language cookbook, published in 1670. At the time, wheat flour was scarce, making kalguksu a luxury dish served only in noble households or at banquets. In most cases, buckwheat served as the main ingredient, with a small amount of wheat flour added for elasticity.
Kalguksu became a common people's food after the Korean War, when large quantities of wheat flour arrived as American relief aid. That is why kalguksu alleys formed near Seoul's Namdaemun Market, where U.S. military goods flowed in, and near Daejeon Station, where American flour was stored and distributed on a large scale.
Although its history as a popular dish spans only about 70 years, kalguksu varieties differ by region. Seoul and Gyeonggi Province developed jemul kalguksu, featuring thin noodles in beef-bone broth, while Chungcheong Province produced geonjin kalguksu, with medium-thick noodles in chicken broth. Coastal regions developed seafood kalguksu with thick noodles. Gangwon Province is known for jang kalguksu, made with soybean paste and red pepper paste, while the Honam region is famous for pat kalguksu made with red beans. Kalguksu dishes featuring zucchini, potatoes, mushrooms, anchovies and clams also warm the hearts of ordinary people. Former President Kim Young-sam, who frequently enjoyed kalguksu, used the dish to cultivate his image as a "president of the common people."
According to the Korea Consumer Agency, the average price of a bowl of kalguksu in Seoul reached 10,038 won as of March, crossing the 10,000-won mark. That is a burdensome level for a single meal for ordinary citizens. Moreover, March import prices surged 16.1%, the largest increase in 28 years, and the government is loosening its fiscal purse strings, suggesting further consumer price increases ahead. Korea depends on imports for 98% of its wheat consumption, raising the likelihood that kalguksu prices will climb further. Former U.S. Federal Reserve Chairman William McChesney Martin once called inflation "a cunning thief" that "steals money from those with the weakest defenses, such as savers and the elderly." It is a warning that incoming Bank of Korea Governor Hyun Song Shin should take to heart when policy goals between price stability and growth come into conflict.
