France has passed a bill imposing fines on ultra-low-cost fast-fashion companies, targeting China's Temu and Shein. The measure aims to reduce environmental pollution caused by clothing produced cheaply in large volumes and to check Chinese e-commerce companies that have encroached on the European market with low-priced apparel.
The French Senate passed an ultra-fast-fashion regulation law, according to The Wall Street Journal on Tuesday. The law imposes a fine of up to 6 euros per item on ultra-low-cost clothing. Companies designated as fast fashion are also banned from advertising and influencer promotions. The fine is projected to rise to a maximum of 10 euros by 2030.
The regulation targets companies that flood the market with large volumes of cheap new products over short periods, generating mass quantities of discarded clothing. Meanwhile, according to the European Environment Agency (EEA), the European Union (EU) generated approximately 7 million tons of textile waste in 2022, or about 16 kilograms per person.
China's Shein and Temu were included, while Europe's H&M and Zara were excluded. Fast-fashion firms including Shein and e-commerce companies such as Temu have expanded their presence in France by supplying trendy products at ultra-low prices. As local traditional retailers came under pressure, calls for tighter regulation grew.
Shein pushed back. The company argued that its model—producing only small quantities first and replenishing inventory only after demand is confirmed—is not a problem. Temu also explained that it is merely an online marketplace directly connecting consumers and manufacturers, and that this approach helps keep prices low.
France's move aligns with efforts by European governments to respond to the rapid growth of Chinese e-commerce platforms. In Italy, lawmakers from Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni's coalition have proposed a bill that includes introducing an environmental rating system for clothing, restricting fast-fashion advertising, and creating a new levy on low-cost parcels shipped from outside the EU.
With this measure, France has become the first European country to crack down on Chinese fast fashion. While the EU has adopted broad regulations on textile sustainability and e-commerce, France is the first to enact a law directly targeting the business models of companies like Shein and Temu. Socialist Party Senator Mickaël Vallet stressed the need for the regulation, saying, "Fast fashion is destroying France's textile industry."
