Ballet and indoor bouldering (artificial rock climbing) are gaining popularity among Koreans in their 20s and 30s, but hobbies are frequently leading to injuries, requiring caution.
According to a hazard information analysis released last year by the Korea Consumer Agency, 83.7 percent of indoor artificial rock climbing safety accidents over the past five years were caused by falls. Particular caution is needed because many indoor climbing gyms operate on the bouldering format, which involves climbing without ropes. For ballet, practitioners should be wary of pain that arises from attempts to widen joint range of motion.
"Ballet and bouldering share the common feature of requiring precise joint range of motion, muscle strength and balance," said Shin Dong-hyup, director of orthopedic surgery at Kangbuk Himchan Hospital. "In particular, adults whose skeletal structure has already been fixed can suffer cartilage damage or ligament tears if they exceed the range their joints can handle."
What to Watch Before Becoming a 'Chwi-bal-ler'
Interest in ballet is growing to the extent that a new term, "chwi-bal-ler" (a portmanteau meaning hobby ballet practitioner), has emerged. Ballet is a high-intensity exercise that requires delicate alignment of toe direction, knee positioning and pelvic stability.
Movements are difficult to execute without proper lower body alignment and core stability. A representative example is the turn-out movement, in which the legs and toes are rotated outward. "If you forcibly turn your toes outward when your pelvis and hip joints don't have sufficient range of motion, your knees and ankles bear weight in a twisted state," Shin said. "If this process is repeated, it can cause pain in the front of the knee or ankle instability."
Standing on the tips of the toes, as in pointe work, or landing after jumps also places a burden on the joints. Repeatedly bearing weight and landing when ankle-area muscles are weak can lead to ankle sprains, Achilles tendinitis and excessive tension in the soles and calves. Forcing movements such as lifting the legs high or bending the back excessively can concentrate strain on the hip joints and lower back, easily causing pain. Repeating strenuous movements without sufficient flexibility can also lead to minor muscle tears or damage to ligaments around the joints.
When practicing ballet, it is more important to learn correct posture within the range the body can handle. Turn-out is not just about spreading the toes but should take place within the range of motion the hip joints can accommodate, with the knees and toes always kept in a straight line. Habits such as excessively locking the knees or hyperextending the lower back should also be avoided. Using the core muscles and glutes to maintain the body's center is important. Before class, light warm-ups and stretching should sufficiently loosen the ankles, hip joints, calves and hamstrings. After class, loosening the muscles and areas around the joints where tension has accumulated from repetitive movements is necessary to recover from the residual strain.
Bouldering: Sufficient Warm-up and Safe Landing
Bouldering is a form of climbing that involves ascending walls three to five meters high without ropes. Because it requires sudden bursts of strong force, the risk of upper-limb injury is high. Repeatedly gripping holds strongly with the fingertips or supporting body weight on bent wrists can easily strain the finger joints, tendons and wrists. In addition, continuously pulling up or holding oneself with arms extended can lead to shoulder pain, including shoulder impingement syndrome or rotator cuff injuries.
Rather than hanging from small holds from the start or repeatedly attempting goals beyond one's level, climbers should begin with a sufficient warm-up. The habit of enduring with grip strength despite pain can exacerbate tendon damage, so caution is needed when sharp pain is felt in the fingers, wrists or elbows. Blisters on the hands caused by excessive practice also require attention. Blisters can be prevented by applying ointment in advance to areas prone to friction or pressure, or by using bandages or taping before practice.
Landing after reaching the top is also important. Since bouldering relies on floor mats in case of falls, climbers can easily injure their ankles during landing or suffer wrist fractures from reflexively breaking their fall with their hands. Rather than jumping down immediately after reaching the top, it is safer to hold onto the holds and descend to a low height before landing. When a fall is unavoidable, it is best to land on the mat with both feet, bend the knees and hip joints to first absorb the impact, and if necessary, shift the center of gravity backward to roll from the hips to the back, dispersing the impact. Care must be taken not to brace against the floor with the hands.
"Don't dismiss pain that occurs during exercise after sufficient stretching beforehand," Shin said. "If pain recurs or swelling and joint instability persist, don't forget to get examined at a specialized hospital."
